Reflections on World Rabies Day

an aggressive dog with sharp teeth
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Earlier today, I found out September 28th is World Rabies Day, celebrated annually to raise awareness about rabies prevention and to honor the anniversary of Louis Pasteur’s death, who developed the first rabies vaccine. This caused me to do a little research and I discovered that prior to the 1960s, several hundred people a year died in the US from rabies, and most of them were exposed by a rabid dog. Since the implementation of successful pet vaccination, more than 90% of reported cases of rabies in the US are in wildlife (most commonly foxes, skunks, raccoons, and bats) and typically fewer than 10 people in the US die from rabies each year. In Asia and Africa, dog rabies is still widespread and it results in about 60,000 deaths world-wide each year. The biggest reason for the decrease in overall exposure and fatalities is due to vaccination of pets and post-exposure prophylaxis (PEP) in people. Unfortunately, PEP is expensive and supplies are limited as well.

Certain wildlife species can act as reservoirs for rabies, which means that a large percentage of the population carries rabies at any given time. These reservoirs change by region, so while skunks are the highest risk group in the Southeast, foxes are a bigger risk in the Southwest and Alaska, and in Puerto Rico, over 80% of the mongoose encounters with humans and pets involve animals with rabies. In theory, any mammal can carry rabies, but in our area, skunks, raccoons, foxes, and bats are the Big Four vectors with ground hogs a distant fifth.

(Fun tidbit: the American possum rarely is a rabies vector. As a marsupial, their lower body temperature prevents them from being good hosts for the virus. They can spread leptospirosis, however.)

And the law is not on your side when it comes to a disease that is almost always fatal when contracted by humans.

World Rabies Day got me thinking about the various times rabies has factored into my life as a veterinarian. Rabies vaccination is a victim of its success–to the extent that now I’m often faced with explaining why it is so important to vaccinate your dog or cat for a disease few people will ever deal with personally. Vaccination is still necessary, however. There are times when I might suggest not continuing certain vaccines for one reason or another, but not rabies. For one thing, it is required by law. And the law is not on your side when it comes to a disease that is almost always fatal when contracted by humans. To date, there have been less than 20 documented human cases of rabies in which the victims survived, and those victims had poor functional outcomes. So if your dog or cat gets exposed to a rabid animal, it’s critical to have proof of previous vaccination to prevent severe regulatory consequences. If your dog or cat bites someone, proof of vaccination can go a long way to blunting the consequences of that act.

Frequently, I have to explain the difference between vaccinated and unvaccinated pets in the eyes of the law and in the face of exposure. Mind you, the law can vary from state to state depending on the severity of rabies within that state, so always check with your veterinarian if you have questions regarding these things. But in general, we know that if a dog or cat bites you BECAUSE it has rabies, it will die within 10-14 days. The risk of a vaccinated pet transmitting rabies is extremely low but not impossible, which is why most states enact a quarantine period of 10-14 days for any pet that has bitten someone, regardless of rabies vaccination status. Rabies vaccine effectiveness has not been proven in wolf-hybrids and is generally not recognized in the eyes of the law, which is why in some states, wolf-hybrids that bite are automatically euthanized and tested. There is no way to test a living animal for rabies, as the test requires examination of brain matter. This is one reason why you should never shoot a suspected rabid animal in the head–not only will you destroy the ability to test for rabies, but the virus is in the spinal fluid. The last thing you want to do is spray that around.

cats on fighting stance
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But if an animal (or human) is exposed to a rabid animal, it can take up to six months for the virus to effect the brain. Once symptoms of rabies are seen in humans, most die within 1-2 weeks, so the time to intervene with prophylactic treatment is right away at the first suggestion of exposure, before any clinical signs develop. This is because the virus, which is spread through the saliva and is also in spinal fluid, can enter your body through a wound, your eyes, or your open mouth–and then begins its slow journey to your central nervous system. You can see why being exposed through contact with fluids through your eye would reach the brain faster than a bite wound to your foot.

If your pet has been vaccinated prior to the time of exposure, a rabies booster will be given and your pet will likely be quarantined anywhere from 30-90 days depending on the laws in your area. A friend of mine had a dog bring home the head of a rabid skunk. Her dog had to remain quarantined on her property, no access to other people or animals, for 45 days. Even though it is extremely rare for a vaccinated dog to develop rabies, it’s not impossible. No vaccine is 100% effective, and if your dog or cat was sick when they were vaccinated (or given a steroid injection, or there was anything that altered the immune response), the vaccine might be ineffective.

If your pet is UNVACCINATED at the time of exposure, or the rabies vaccine has lapsed and is not up to date, you may be asked to strictly quarantine your pet in a pen within a pen, with no human contact whatsoever for six months. Basically, the assumption is your pet has a good chance of developing rabies from the exposure and every measure must be taken to prevent human exposure. It is a serious undertaking. The health department and animal control will be closely involved to make sure proper quarantine procedures will be taken. And your pet will have no understanding as to why you must cage it like this for so long.

black raccoon in close up photography
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Are there ever any serious reactions to rabies vaccination, both in people or animals? Yes. But I can count on one hand the number of adverse reactions I’ve seen in over 30 years of practice, and none in the last 20 years. Vaccines have come a long way over time. Safety and efficacy have improved tremendously just in the time I’ve been practicing medicine. Vaccines have done a tremendous job of reducing the number of cases and the severity of so many childhood diseases as well. According to an article posted by the American Lung Association, “Around 1900, well before vaccines were available, almost 20% of children died before their fifth birthday and the most common causes were infectious disease that can be prevented by the vaccines we have available today.” In my first job out of school, I worked in an extremely rural community where the vast majority of people didn’t vaccinate their pets for anything but rabies. I saw 40 cases of parvo the last month I was there. I haven’t seen 10 cases of parvo in the last 20 years. I worry that now that so many people are choosing not to vaccinate their pets, we’re going to see a return to those horrible days of isolation wards, PPE, and dogs dying from a preventable disease.

The first time I had any personal dealings with rabies, I was in vet school. Over twenty people were exposed to a rabid calf in the large animal department, students and faculty alike. I was fortunate not to be one of the exposed, but as a result, the decision came down from above that all students were to be vaccinated. This was not a decision taken lightly, but it is something that everyone who works in a high-risk profession, such as veterinarians, wildlife rehabbers, shelter workers, etc should consider. I got my vaccine series without issue and didn’t think about it much afterward. Because many people do react negatively to rabies vaccination, we’re not boosted every so often like dogs or cats. We get our titers checked. More on that later.

In my second year post graduation, I saw a seizuring dog on emergency. Initially, the patient, a stray dog that the clients had been taking care of for about a month, did not respond to any medication. I had a list of differentials that included epilepsy, poisons such as organophosphates or strychnine, canine distemper, and rabies. The patient seemed to spontaneously recover, and looked 100% normal. Eating, drinking, wagging his tail. And then he died. One minute acting normal, the next minute dead. All of the sudden, I had to move rabies to the top of my rule out list. I also had to fight with the local health department to get him tested. I’ll never forget the shocked look on the office manager’s face when she got off the phone with the results from the health department.

Post-exposure prophylaxis consists of two major steps: giving the exposed person a big dose of immunoglobulins that will immediately convey some immunity to the victim (called passive transfer) and then following up with a series of five vaccinations to trigger an active immune response. Everyone who handled or came into contact with this dog had to undergo this treatment–including the entire family who had been taking care of the dog all along. But I had already been vaccinated, so in my case, rather than getting 18 cc of immunoglobulins injected in the largest muscle on my body, they checked my titer first.

Aha! You say. See, if your titer is good, you don’t need boosters. We shouldn’t booster any rabies vaccine, right? WRONG. Because my titer was good, I got to skip the immunoglobulin injection but I still received two boosters (instead of five, like an unvaccinated person). Why? Because rabies will KILL you. If my titer had been low, I would have been treated exactly like an unvaccinated person. Fortunately, none of the people who were exposed to this dog developed rabies. It was the first documented case of rabies in that county in 12 years, which makes me wonder how many cases might have been missed.

I did cancel my dentist’s appointment during the PEP phase. No one questioned that decision.

Only a few years later, 40 people at a church picnic were exposed when someone brought a baby raccoon to the outing. Yes, even baby animals can have rabies. Everyone at the picnic who handled the raccoon had to be given PEP.

Yes, house cats and dogs need rabies vaccinations. I’ve had three clients have rabid bats get in their house. In two situations, not all the animals were up to date on their vaccinations, and the clients had to build a special pen inside another pen, so that it was impossible for anyone to touch the animal in the inner pen, and that pet had to stay in that pen for six months without human contact. In the third house, because we don’t vaccinate Guinea pigs for rabies, nor is there a known quarantine period, the health department required the Guinea pig to be euthanized. No choice.

My sister’s elderly, unvaccinated house cat bit its rescuer during extraction from a house fire. Despite the circumstances of the bite being understandable, the health department almost took my sister’s cat away from her, but eventually allowed home quarantine.

yellow labrador retriever puppy sitting on black floor
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The saddest case I ever had to deal with was an entire litter of beautiful lab puppies. We’d just seen them the week before for their first puppy shots, but they were only 7 weeks old–too young to vaccinate for rabies. A skunk got into the outdoor pen with them where they were being kept and was killed. Confirmed rabies. The clients were given a choice: lock the puppies up in a pen within a pen with no human contact for six months, or euthanize the litter. They chose euthanasia because there was no way the puppies would be normal dogs after such restricted contact for the biggest part of their social and developmental growth. They’d basically be wild animals. It was one of the most devastating things I’ve ever had to do as a veterinarian.

The most frustrating case I dealt with wasn’t actually a case of rabies but a situation in which I tried to persuade a client to stop letting an unvaccinated feral tomcat come inside and sleep on her three-year-old son’s bed at night.

“Ma,am. At the very least, you must get this cat vaccinated for rabies.”

She looked at me without comprehension. “Why? What does rabies do to you anyway?”

I gave her all the reasons why letting this unneutered, unvaccinated tomcat sleep with her child was a terrible idea. And then I told her to go watch Old Yeller. I’d say the same to you. If you have doubts about vaccinating for rabies, please. Go watch Old Yeller.

Bladder Stones, Farmer’s Dog, and Facebook: What you should know

A few weeks ago, my Facebook page blew up with people sharing a particular post about the University of Minnesota College of Veterinary Medicine’s discovery of a new urolith (urinary stone) comprised of calcium tartrate tetrahydrate.

Image of struvite stones in a dog’s bladder

If you work in clinical practice in veterinary medicine, at some point you are likely to have sent bladder stones off to the Minnesota Urolith Center for analysis. Identifying the stone you’re dealing with is crucial to determining how to prevent future stone formation, often with specialized prescription diets. (The struvite stones depicted in the image above are ideally suited to control through diet) Because the MUC analyzes more stones than almost any other laboratory, they are in an unique position to identify early trends, and a few years ago, they began receiving new and unusual stones for identification. The new stones were comprised of choline and tartrate, but so few had been submitted, no one thought too much about it at first.

Then they began receiving more and more cases, mostly in small-breed, male dogs. MUC started collecting dietary information on the patients diagnosed with these stones, and they found a clear link between these uroliths and the use of choline bitartrate used in some of the more popular fresh food brands for dogs–such as Farmer’s Dog, JustForDogs, and NomNom brand foods. It is also commonly added to vitamin and mineral supplements available through such sites that help dog owners balance their homemade diets with a mineral mix. There have even been cases reported in humans taking supplements with choline bitartrate in them.

What is choline bitartrate anyway? It’s a salt of tartaric acid, making it a bioavailable form of choline in diets. Tartaric acid is the ingredient in grapes and raisins that make them lethal to pets, and ingestion of cream of tartar is also toxic as well! (I have a favorite holiday cookie recipe that calls for cream of tartar that I no longer make, as I consider the risk of accidental ingestion by one of the pets too great a risk) Choline bitartrate is not the same as tartaric acid, and yet clearly there are downsides of feeding it to our pets. To make matters more confusing, not all of the dog food companies studied specify what type of choline bitartrate is used in their brands, and it is possible that some types are safer than others.

The paper detailing the discovery of these stones and their link to choline bitartrate in the diet was first published in the Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine in April 2025, but it wasn’t until a Facebook post by a veterinary clinic warning of the dangers of feeding fresh pet foods, such as the brands listed above, that information about this issue really took off on my social media. I don’t spend much time on Facebook, so I hadn’t run across the articles, but several people emailed me links, usually with the title “DON’T FEED FARMER’S DOG” in the subject line.

That’s how it was framed: Don’t feed X Brand, instead of “here’s an ingredient you should check to make sure is not in your dog’s food or supplements.” The pet food/pet influencer industry generates a lot of money, and it would be naive to think there aren’t people who have a certain desire to control the narrative. Especially when a single post can be so easily shared over and over again on Facebook. I came across a follow up post recently, in which the OP stated they were not advocating changing foods without talking to your veterinarian, but the odds are only a fraction of Facebook users saw that post.

The thing is, this warning isn’t meant to be an attack on a particular brand of fresh pet foods. I found choline bitartrate listed in certain lines of Wysong foods, as well as some lines of American Natural Premium foods, and several joint supplements, such as those made by MaxxiPaws. Ollie dog food listed this ingredient as well. It’s a recognition that we as pet caretakers need to be aware of this new issue and its cause, and take steps to protect our dogs, particularly if they fall into the higher risk categories of being a male, small breed dog.

I checked my own dog’s food after the Facebook post. I confess to a sigh of relief when I saw his food contained choline chloride and not bitartrate. The problem is, there will be no way of knowing moving forward if the type of choline bitartrate makes a difference and if companies have taken the steps to make this ingredient safer to feed.

I’ll be the first to state here, I am NOT a nutritionist. But there are some things I caution my clients about feeding their pets. There have been cases of raw diets contaminated with the bird flu killing cats, and the bird flu has been reported in cattle and swine as well as poultry. I’ve never been a big fan of raw diets, and given the FDA has scaled back its food safety inspections, I am even less likely to recommend feeding raw diets, particularly since recent events within the CDC make it doubtful bird flu is being closely monitored. With the rise in popularity of grain-free diets, we saw concerns about certain heart protective amino acids not being bioavailable in GF diets, thus showing a correlation in the increase of cardiomyopathy, particularly in dogs. I do not recommend grain-free diets for our pets, despite the fact that on any of the most popular “Ten Best Dog Foods” list, 90% of the foods listed are usually grain-free. I think the rise of the influencer culture has been a big factor in the increased popularity of these foods, as well as some of the negative marketing campaigns I’ve seen aimed at some of the big dog food companies (not that these companies are necessarily blameless when it comes to food safety).

So, you must realize here I am biased in my own way regarding pet foods. You must take anything I say with that in mind. But I will tell you that when I speak with veterinary nutritionists, dermatologists, and cardiologists, none of them recommend feeding BEG diets: Boutique, Exotic, Grain-Free. And every single cardiologist I have ever spoken with tells me the first thing they do when diagnosing a new cardiac patient is take them off BEG diets if they are being fed.

So for now, I’m going to continue to read my labels, and avoid any diets with choline bitartrate in them.

Understanding Your Pet’s Labwork is on Sale!

Just in time for Black Friday/Cyber Monday, Understanding Your Pet’s Labwork: A Guide to Communicating with Your Veterinarian is on sale for a limited time. Looking for the perfect holiday gift for the pet lover in your life? This unique reference book is designed for the discerning dog or cat lover who would like to understand in more detail what it means when your dog’s ALKP is high, or why imbalances in electrolytes are so concerning.

Empower yourself as a pet parent to ask the right questions when faced with certain test results, and have a better understanding of why your veterinarian recommends certain courses of action.

Veterinarians and veterinary professionals may also find this resource useful when explaining the implications behind certain test results, and open up a clearer dialog between you and your clients.

This is a reference book that can be used in many ways: as a resource when looking up specific test results, as a text to be read over time when you’d to know more how veterinarians view diagnostic testing, or if you’d like a simple analogy to explain how the kidneys or the pancreas works.

Understanding Your Pet’s Labwork has been discounted for this weekend alone, so grab your copy at this price while you can!

How a Visit to the Dentist Made Me a More Empathetic Veterinarian

dog in elizabethan collar medical device
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It’s a fact of veterinary medicine that sometimes we must muzzle our patients in order to have their cooperation and to protect the people handling them. This isn’t something we like to do as a matter of routine. For years, I’ve been using cheese and treats to make the vet experience positive for puppies and kittens, and many of those animals grow up being excited to see us.

But that method doesn’t always work. Farm dogs who only see a vet for the occasional rabies shot, dogs who have more important things to do and resist the notion of holding still, cats who never leave the house except when they are ill, animals that have had bad experiences elsewhere or are so terrified at the vet’s office they shut down, unable or unwilling to accept rewards–these are challenging patients. As are the aggressive patients or undersocialized patients: the feral tomcats, flock dogs that have never seen the inside of a building, animals who believe a good offense is the best defense.

It doesn’t help that the veterinary profession has been under a lot of strain for years–and only just now are getting the recognition of this fact. Job burnout is high. Clinics are chronically understaffed, staff members are chronically overworked. The job itself is fraught with emotional, physical, and mental stress. The veterinary profession must deal with what researchers call “the caring-killing paradox“, in which we are sometimes forced to end the life of a patient we’ve been taking care of since it was a puppy or kitten, even though this may be the humane, necessary, or only viable option. Clients blow up at staff members, accusing us of “only being in it for the money” when the costs of practicing high quality medicine are often outside our control and because if we can’t afford to pay our staff and our bills, we won’t be there for your pets. Cyberbullying has a huge impact on the mental health of those in the profession. Professionals have been literally threatened–even killed–by disgruntled clients. The suicide rate among female veterinarians is 3.5 times the national average, and male veterinary technicians are five times more likely to commit suicide. According to the CDC studies, one in six veterinarians has contemplated ending their lives.

As one article I read said, “You’re always failing someone.”

cute healthy yorkshire terrier with nurse cap and stethoscope
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In the past, I have worked in practices where appointments were booked every 10 minutes, and the emphasis was on getting things done and staying on schedule. There is very little time in situations such as these to accommodate a fearful or aggressive pet. Thank goodness, by far and large, the profession has moved away from this model!

But often, it’s not a simple matter of slipping a muzzle on the animal and presto! You can suddenly draw blood samples or palpate a tense abdomen. Sometimes, even the most competent professionals cannot get the animal safely contained.

Fortunately, with the advent of Fear Free training and the emphasis on fear-free veterinary experiences, we’re seeing the tide turn when it comes to restraint practices. This often means using what we call the “chill protocol” (a combination of anti-anxiety and calming medications) prior to the vet visit, which not only brings the fear levels down in the patient, but also in the people who have to handle them in the clinic. We still have to use muzzles and restraint methods on many of these pets, but everyone is much calmer. This not only facilitates drawing lab samples, but performing physical examinations on some animals that will not allow anyone except their owners to touch them. If your veterinarian suggests something along these lines, please understand we are trying to create a more positive experience for all concerned.

Many of the patients we’re seeing now were pandemic puppies and kittens–an entire generation of undersocialized animals who saw only their own people during lockdown. While I wouldn’t wish this on any of us, one of the good things to come out of this is the recognition that something needs to change when it comes to handling such fearful pets on a regular basis.

But we still have pets who freak out when muzzled–an apparent panic attack–even with anti-anxiety medication on board. It wasn’t until an experience at the dentist several years ago that I figured out why. Like some animals and vet visits, many of us have a fear of going to the dentist. We’ve felt extreme pain, or our jaws ached for days after having work done. I don’t like going myself, despite the fact I have an outstanding dentist. (In fact, I drive almost an hour to see him because I trust him when it comes to painful procedures).

dental tool set
Photo by Daniel Frank on Pexels.com

At that time, I had to have an impression mold done for some dental work I needed. This required filling a tray with what seemed like Silly Putty and having me bite down on this until the jelly-like mass filled my mouth. Then I had to sit there for several minutes, breathing through my nose, while the molding putty hardened. The glutinous mess filled my oral cavity and pressed on my upper palate. It obstructed the back of my throat. And while I labored to pull air in and out of my chronically inflamed, allergic nasal passages for those two minutes I had to endure the process, I gripped the armrests of my chair until my fingers ached and drummed my heels on the seat, all the while my adrenaline surged. I thought I was going to die.

I came away from the experience understanding why some dogs flip out when they are muzzled. See, the type of muzzle most often used in vet med is a nylon or mesh muzzle which holds the mouth tightly shut. Dogs cannot pant wearing this type of muzzle. We can only leave it on for brief periods of time, as the patient is at risk of overheating. It’s not the sort of muzzle for home use, and so animals learn to associate it with vet visits as well. There are different muzzles designed for the flat faced breeds and cats, but I’d observed that some animals with regular snouts didn’t breath well when muzzled (so we worked very fast).

My experience at the dentist changed everything. Now I got it. I really got it. Some muzzled animals believed they were going to die.

The first thing I did was begin instituting the use of basket muzzles for those highly fearful dogs that needed to wear a muzzle for their entire visit. These are plastic or wire muzzles that allow the patient to open their mouths, pant, drink water and accept high-value treats but not bite. (I prefer the plastic ones for veterinary use because getting punched with a wire muzzle still hurts a lot!)

The difference in some dogs was amazing. They still weren’t happy about their vet visits, and most still needed medication to make things easier for everyone involved. But that level of panic that would make us abandon further attempts to perform our exam, draw blood, etc. wasn’t there. Best of all, clients could order their own muzzles and practice habituating the dogs to them at home. They could arrive wearing a basket muzzle because overheating wasn’t an issue. And we didn’t have to start our visit trying to corral a patient into wearing a safety device. Frankly, I wish I’d instituted basket muzzles sooner.

The brand I recommend most often is made by Baskerville. They are well constructed and come in a variety of sizes. (The one linked here is for a medium sized dog–make sure you read the specs before ordering any for your own dog). I recommend placing a little squeeze cheese or peanut butter inside the muzzle and encouraging your dog to place his snout inside, holding it in place for short periods while he gets his treat, and gradually working up to buckling it on and having him wear it for longer increments of time at home. This is the sort of training that needs to be done well in advance of vet visits. But training your dog to wear a muzzle and the use of the chill protocol can ease the trauma of vet visits for these pets–and it is a trauma to them. But having less terrifying experiences over time lessens the fear and aggression for many of these dogs, and these visits become less traumatic for everyone.

I recently had to have an emergency root canal. I told my dentist up front about the fact I didn’t breathe well through my nose and the panic that ensued when I thought I couldn’t breathe. He took these things into consideration, and we arranged a sort of “safe signal” so I could tap out when I needed a break. We got through the procedure, even though I wouldn’t wish it on even my worst enemy. Afterward, speaking slowly in an attempt to enunciate with half my face numb, I told him what I’d learned at his hands.

He laughed. I’m sure he’ll be dining out on that story in the future.

Understanding Your Pet’s Labwork Webinar

Two announcements here today: first is that Understanding Your Pet’s Labwork: A Guide to Communicating with Your Veterinarian is now available in print form! I don’t know about you, but when it comes to reference material, I prefer a print format to a digital one.

The second announcement goes hand in hand with the first: I’m so pleased to be offering a digital course on Understanding Your Pet’s Labwork in conjunction with Suzanne Clothier on October 12th, at 3 pm EST.

You can sign up for the course on Suzanne’s website here: Understanding Your Pet’s Lab Work.

If you’re not familiar with Suzanne, she is a highly respected dog trainer, international speaker, the bestselling author of Bones Would Rain From The Sky, and the founder of Relationship Centered Training.

I met Suzanne many years ago when I had a German Shepherd named Abbey, who’d become dog-reactive after being attacked by a neighbor’s pack of dogs that had every intention of killing her. As far as Abbey was concerned after this event, a good offense was the best defense. At the time, Suzanne was running Camp Dances with Dogs, and she agreed to have Abbey and I join as participants. I’ll never forget watching Suzanne assess my dog very accurately within a matter of minutes and determine that she wasn’t aggressive–she was terrified of being jumped again. I could scarcely believe it when Suzanne was able to select dogs out of the group that would be non-threatening to Abbey and introduce her in a controlled setting. I watched my dog relax and play for the first time in years.

My experience at Camp DWD that year had a profound impact on my life. I came away from camp not only wanting to have a different kind of relationship with my dog, but wanting to practice a different style of medicine too.

During one of my camp attendances, Suzanne invited me to be a guest speaker. I chose to talk about lab work, and why I thought it was important for pet owners to have a basic understanding of the most common test run and the implications of their results. Afterward, she encouraged me to write a book about it, and Understanding Your Pet’s Labwork was born.

It was many years in the making, however. At the time, self-publishing wasn’t possible, and I had a hard time finding a publisher who didn’t want to reduce the text to a series of bullet points. When self-publishing became widely available, it still wasn’t possible to format the charts and tables I needed. When the industry changed to accommodate such needs, it had been so long since I’d written the original material, that I had some serious editing and updating to do. In the end, I’m glad it was such a lengthy process because I’m a much better writer now than I was when I first started this project.

So I am greatly honored to be doing this webinar in conjunction with Suzanne. I’ll be hitting the highlights of the book, explaining the CBC, the chem panel, the urinalysis, and other common lab tests run. There will be a Q&A at the end, too! Not to worry if you can’t make it to the seminar live: everyone who signs up for the course will have access to the recorded material later. Win-Win for everyone!

I hope to see you at the webinar!

Trimming Your Pet’s Toenails: Getting it Right the First Time

a close up shot of a person cutting a dog s nail
Photo by Mirko Fabian on Pexels.com

It can be one of the most challenging things I’m asked to do as a veterinarian: Could you trim my dog or cat’s toenails?

Frequently, by the time a client is bringing a pet to us for a nail trim, it’s because no one else can do it. The expectation that somehow our staff will magically be able to perform this task after half a dozen or so other people have tried and failed is a tough one to overcome.

What many people don’t realize is can take up to one thousand good experiences to negate a single negative one. And once an animal has experienced being muscled down in order to facilitate a nail trim, the process of retraining your pet to accept this without fear or aggression may well mean that for the time being, your pet won’t be getting the nails trimmed the way you’d like them to be.

Before we discuss the re-training process on a failed nail trimming pet, let’s talk about starting out on the right paw, so to speak.

If you are fortunate enough to have adopted your pet as a young puppy or kitten, you’re in luck. You can start out teaching your young pet to accept nail trimming with lots of treats and gentle handling. I usually recommend using a human toenail trimmer at this stage, as you are both learning this process at the same time, and I find you have better control with a human nail clipper. Your pet’s nails are quite small at this juncture, and it is easier not to take too much off with the human nail clippers. As my pet gets larger (especially big dogs), I tend to switch to a scissors-type clipper. I’m not fond of the clippers that have a blade that slides forward to cut the nail, as many animals seem to act as though this pinches the nail. I prefer continuing to use human nail clippers even on adult cats, though at times cat-specific clippers may be needed, especially for ingrown nails.

My preferred type of dog toe nail clipper

Because cat’s nails are retractable, it helps to gently squeeze the paw to make the nails extend, and then you can just tip them with the clippers. Cats need access to scratching poles to shed the nail caps of old growth, and older cats no longer using poles will frequently get painful ingrown nails. Cats with extra toes frequently have similar issues with ingrown nails as they often can’t scratch with the extra toes, and even though declawing in general is not recommended, there are times when your vet may recommend declawing just the extra toes to prevent recurrent issues with growth.

Ideally, during the training process, it is helpful to have some assistance: one person to hold the puppy and give out treats while someone else trims the nails. The most important part about these sessions is that you don’t frighten the pet, or attempt to do too many nails at one time if you are meeting resistance on their part. You don’t want to teach your pet that fighting is the way out of doing something they don’t want to do, but you also don’t want nail trimming (or anything else for that matter) to turn into a major battle. I recommend starting the training within a day or two of adoption, and plan in advance to only clip one or two nails, with lots of praise and treats. Then come back again the next day and attempt a few more. Take your time. Also, choose your time wisely–a good time to attempt nail trimming is after your puppy has been playing hard and is tired.

The nails of young animals frequently have a defined “hook” at the tip that makes it easy to judge how much to take off. Just be sure to trim less than you think you can at first until both you and your pet are comfortable with the process.

I sometimes use a grinder or nail file post clipping, but not at first (one lesson at a time, build up to grinding) and not as the sole means of keeping the nails short. Used incorrectly, a grinder can overheat and burn the nail, and make your pet fearful of not only grinders but motorized clippers/shears too. The length of time it takes to grind down a long nail is longer than you realize. Best to shorten the nail first and take down the sharp edges with a grinder or file.

Just like us, animals have a nail that extends beyond the pink fleshy bit. If you’re lucky and your pet has some white nails, you can use those to judge how much to trim off the others. Cutting the nails too short WILL hurt and can make them bleed as well. This is something you want to avoid during the training and trust period so be very conservative at first. Nails grow at the rate of roughly 1/4 inch per month. You have plenty of time to go slow and teach good experiences from the start.

Short, frequent sessions with lots of praise and high value rewards (usually the kind of treat reserved for this procedure only) is the best, most reliable way to teach a puppy or kitten to have their nails cut. They now make “lick it” type cat treats that work very well for this sort of thing too. Once I teach my pets to have their nails trimmed, I usually don’t need any assistance whatsoever. I still be sure to reward them during the clipping process and again when we’re done.

Many people don’t realize that the pink part visible inside a white nail will bleed if cut, and that the blood supply can extend further than readily visible to the naked eye. We often get requests for nail trims “as short as possible” and then clients are disappointed when we don’t cut the nails back the way they would prefer. ‘Stop Quik‘ and styptic pencils used to stop bleeding if you get the nails too short can sting when applied, and this just compounds the negative experience. When in doubt, take off less.

I also prefer to have someone suspend a small dog or puppy in their arms when I’m trimming nails. This allows me to get beneath the paws and have a clear visual on how much to trim while at the same time preventing the patient from pushing off the table or floor with their feet. Again, someone is giving out treats the entire time–usually something high value like squeeze cheese or peanut butter. We have to be careful using peanut butter in a clinical setting as we must be cognizant of clients with peanut allergies, but this is certainly something you can try at home. I personally think most dogs get tired of peanut butter quickly, and it may be hard to perform a complete nail trim using it. Experiment with treats to find the one your dog really likes for this procedure. It may not be the same thing you’d use in different circumstances.

I’m sure you’ve seen or heard of people putting peanut butter on Saran wrap on their foreheads or on a hat and trimming their dogs nails without assistance while the pet licks their heads. I’m not a huge fan of this myself, as I think there is a risk putting your face that close to an animal who may or may not tolerate nail clipping. This is definitely not something I would try with an adult animal who has issues with nail trimming. I have, however, put peanut butter, squeeze cheese/cream cheese, or canned cat food on the wall at nose level while someone holds the pet in place and I clip nails.

Some people report excellent success using slings to hold their dogs up while trimming nails. This is similar to what I do in a clinical setting with an assistant, and I think it is worth considering.

Why does “slinging” a pet seem to work? Because in order to prevent a dog from wiggling out of your grasp, or pulling its paw away just as you go to snip, or worse, trying to bite you during the process, we typically hold the dog in a precise manner: one arm stabilizing the body, and one arm around the neck to control the head and keep the dog from biting at your hands. This is a common position for many procedures during the course of examining a dog, administering vaccinations, taking temperatures, placing a catheter, drawing blood samples, and yes, clipping nails…

Teaching your young animal to accept being held in this manner by a variety of people, including lots of high value rewards during the process is something I highly recommend. I encourage clients with new pets to practice these techniques regularly with young animals to develop trust even when it comes to performing unpleasant tasks.

But if your pet has a bad experience during nail clipping, in which several people attempt to forcibly hold your pet in place to perform the trimming, this will not only teach your pet to become highly resistant to nail clipping, but to ALL the procedures we need to perform at the vet’s office. Some animals seem more comfortable and less panicky in a sling than being body-hugged by several people. Slinging controls the body while keeping the trimmer’s hands to stay out of reach of the dog’s mouth and allows for excellent visualization of the feet. Sometimes, less is more when it comes to necessary restraint for medical procedures.

Sometimes, less is more when it comes to necessary restraint for medical procedures.

In order to take the “less is more” approach, however, and still ensure the procedure is performed (whatever that may be) as well as maintain the safety of all involved, sometimes this means muzzling your dog (or putting a specially-designed globe on your cat’s head like a spaceman’s helmet) so that only minimal restraint is necessary. Muzzling + high value food reward (such as fresh cooked chicken or tuna) + minimal restraint (someone lightly keeping the animal in one place or using a sling) can be more effective and less traumatic for EVERYONE than calling in three or four people to man-handle the pet into compliance. Most animals will fight even harder if forcibly restrained, to the point of injuring themselves and those holding them, and you’re teaching them that such procedures are bad, scary things. Animals with flat faces (such as Pugs or Persians) who can’t breathe well in the first place, justifiably panic if you attempt to keep their mouth closed during a nail trim.

Because we want to take our time with a fearful, aggressive patient that presents for a nail trim, I usually recommend the client purchase a basket muzzle and teach the dog to accept wearing it at home in a non-scary situation. Basket muzzles are designed to allow your dog to pant, drink water, and accept treats. They can wear these muzzles for a longer period of time than the traditional cloth muzzles, which can cause a dog to overheat quickly and is disastrous for a dog who can’t breathe through its nose. I also advise the client we many only get one or two nails done–our goal is to make the visit as happy as possible. I may recommend anti-anxiety medication or tranquilizers as well. I tell people up front that it is more important that we have a good nail clipping experience than to get all the nails trimmed.

I often see resistance on the part of owners to the idea of using a basket muzzle on their fearful or aggressive dogs for vet visits. I can understand their concern. We aren’t saying your dog is a bad dog, however. We’re recognizing the anxiety your pet experiences coming to the vet for medical procedures and by taking the option of biting out of the picture–as well as lowering the risk to all handlers–we’ve seen HUGE differences in the level of comfort and cooperation many of these dogs exhibit when someone tries to hold them safely. It’s the restraint for the procedure that is often the biggest problem, not the act of drawing blood or administering vaccines. Wearing the muzzle while not being forcibly held in place allows for positive reinforcement and reconditioning of a negative experience.

Unfortunately, by the time I see a pet for a nail trim, it is often because several other people have tried to manhandle the pet into compliance. Now the pet is fearful and aggressive about nail-trimming–and justifiably so. Nail trimming is often the one thing that even when we practice all the fear-reducing and safety protocols recommended, we still might not be able to do the nail trim. Remember, it can take a thousand good experiences to negate a bad one, and re-training a dog to accept nail clipping is a long, painstaking procedure that is not always successful. Some dogs need medication to manage their anxiety during the training process. Some dogs, due to the potential for human injury, can only have their nails done under general sedation, which is not practical on a regular basis.

The key to having a dog or cat that allows you to trim their nails is start early and practice regularly. You can’t wait until a dog is nine months old and then decide to take it someplace to get a supershort nail trim because the dog is scratching you when it jumps on you or damaging your flooring. Teach your dog not to jump or paw people. Teach your puppy to have its nails clipped frequently as a baby and practice on a regular basis as it grows up.

What if you’ve adopted an adult or adolescent animal who has never had its nails done and won’t allow you to do so? My recommendation is start out as though they were puppies: have a person help with holding and giving out treats while someone clips one or two nails and then STOP. Come back and do a few more the next day. Be very conservative with your trimming, especially rear nails, which are often worn shorter or black nails when you can’t judge how much to take off. You must build that level of trust in order to successfully teach nail trimming. And if your new dog gives you indications this is not something they are comfortable having you do–or you yourself are not comfortable attempting a nail trim–seek professional help. But be your dog’s advocate. Tell whoever it may be that your goal is teaching a happy nail trim–NOT forcing your dog into submission to “get the job done”. That may work once… but never again.

I train all my dogs to have their nails done as puppies. I train them to trust that whatever I do, good things will follow–including cleaning ears, opening their mouths, trading one toy for another, standing for examination, etc.

I used to have one of my dogs professionally groomed. Every time I dropped him off at the groomers, I made a point of telling them not to do his nails; I do them myself.

I forgot ONE TIME to mention this at drop off. When I came to pick my dog up, the groomer met me at the door. “We don’t normally do his nails, do we?”

“Oh no,” I said. “I take care of those.”

She made a face. “I didn’t think so. We tried, and he wasn’t very good about it, so we quit.”

I didn’t think much about it at the time. A few weeks later, when I went to trim his nails, he whined and pulled his feet away and was generally uncooperative, but I eventually got them done. I was probably sterner than I should have been, not recognizing his anxiety or why he was behaving like that but it didn’t dawn on me what was going on, in part because no one was holding him for the procedure. I didn’t think too much about it until a month later when he had to be sedated for a biopsy. When the assistant put her arms around him in the typical position to restrain for an injection–similar to the position when someone holds for a nail trim–he screamed like he was being boiled alive in oil. If ever a dog had a PTSD flashback, that was what it would look like. His eyes dilated to black holes and his gums went white. He clearly didn’t recognize me or anyone working with him. We couldn’t calm him down until we let him go. It was a horrible thing to witness. Worse to know that I’d somehow allowed this to happen to him without even realizing it.

It was only then I connected the dots. That “attempt” to clip his nails had to have been a bad one. I had to retrain him from the ground up to accept being held for various procedures and the only reason it worked is because the groundwork for trust had already been laid in the first place. We just had to uncover it again, slowly, with lots of love and patience. As it was, the rest of his life, I had to be present for any sort of procedure that required his being held. He wouldn’t let anyone else do it.

If the trust isn’t there to start, then you may never be able to undo a bad nail trimming experience. For some reason, this seems to apply more to nail trimming than almost any other medical procedure we perform on animals. Perhaps it is because animals are instinctively foot-protective. Perhaps it is because a broken nail is very painful. I think a large part of it is because many people do not lay the proper groundwork for this procedure and then don’t understand what went wrong when your pet won’t allow it. You may not have been the one to violate your pet’s trust in the first place. But trust is the foundation for successful nail clipping.

Do You Store and Handle Your Pet’s Food Properly?

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I don’t know about you, but I’m guilty of not cleaning my pets’ bowls as frequently as I should. I recently read an article in the Your Dog Newsletter from Tufts University that said pet dishes contained the ninth highest levels of bacteria in our homes–even higher in some cases than toilet bowls.

Perhaps for many of us, this doesn’t seem to be an issue. Our pets are healthy, and we ourselves show no signs of illness. But many households contain immunocompromised individuals (at least 2.7 per 100 people). Pregnant women and children under five years of age are also at higher risk for developing serious illness when exposed to certain food-borne bacteria. Hardly a day goes by when we don’t hear of a pet food recall due to salmonella or listeria. Good pet food handling habits become even more important if you feed a raw diet to your pets, as the risks of exposure to such bacteria is even higher.

A study in the Plos One Journal examined the habits of pet owners regarding the storage and distribution of food, and discovered most people did not wash their hands before handling their pet’s food. One in five participants reported washing their pet’s dishes only once a week. Many said they didn’t wash their pet’s bowls more than once every three months–if ever.

As I said before, I’m guilty of practicing less than perfect pet food hygiene, even though there are some parts of the FDA guidelines I know and recommend.

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But after doing a little research to write this post, I realize I need to do a better job. The FDA guidelines are pretty basic:

  1. Wash your hands before handling your pet’s food (at least 20 seconds with soap and water). If you sing “Happy Birthday” or recite the opening sequence of the original Star Trek series (“Space: the Final Frontier. These are the voyages of the Starship Enterprise… etc), that is the perfect length of time to wash your hands.
  2. Use a designated utensil for scooping food (not your pet’s bowl) and wash both the scooping utensil and the bowl after EACH USE.
  3. Throw out old, spoiled food in a manner than your pet cannot access it. Bag it and place in a trash can either outside or with a locking lid.

Food storage is also critical.

  1. Promptly refrigerate or throw out unused or leftover canned and pouched pet food. Tightly cover refrigerated pet food with the correct-sized lid Make sure your refrigerator temperature is set to 40 F or below.
  2. Store dry pet food in a cool and dry place. The temperature should be less than 80 F. Excess heat or moisture can cause spoilage. Keeping your pets’s food in the garage is NOT a good idea.
  3. Store dry pet food in its original bag and keep the top of the bag tightly folded down with clips or tape.
  4. Keep pet food in a secure location to prevent your pet from eating an entire supply at once. A locking trash can is a good option.

One of the most common mistakes I see people make is purchasing food and dumping it into plastic bins for ease of storage

Lamb based dog food in particular can mold in as little as a few weeks, so if you feed lamb, you probably should buy smaller bags to use it up more quickly. One of the most common mistakes I see people make is purchasing food and dumping it into plastic bins for ease of storage (and prevent mice from getting into it). The problem with this is that you never completely remove all the crumbs from your bin before dumping the next bag on top, increasing the risk of developing mold. It is best to keep your pet’s food in the original bag and roll the top down tightly. You can still put it in your storage bin–just keep it in the original bag.

I’ve also had clients who store their pet’s food in the garage, and high, humid temperatures in the summer can destroy the value of the food as well as promote spoilage.

So bottom line, wash your hands before and after handling your pet’s food, be sure to wash bowls and utensils daily. Take steps to store your pet’s food properly. These simple steps can help keep you and your pet safer and a lot healthier.

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Help! My Dog is Itchy! Part 1: Fleas and Food

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The other night, I broke one of my cardinal rules and got involved in a discussion about pet health care on Facebook.

Someone posted about their dog’s chronic ear problems, and asked for help, particularly from the veterinary community.

I find this sort of situation frustrating. Obviously, this person has struggled to find an answer for her dog’s problems. Having been to several vets without success, she turned to social media. The amount of incorrect and potentially dangerous information I see on these kinds of posts makes it hard for me to resist weighing in, but most of the time, I can fight the urge.

But this time, I tried to help, and very quickly, the poster became defensive at both my line of questioning and recommendations.

“We’ve already switched her food several times. We’ve already tried this product. That drug didn’t work.”

I don’t blame the poster for feeling as though my questions were unhelpful or that we were treading down the same road previously traveled without success. It made me realize two things: social media really isn’t the best place to disseminate information and I needed to write a blog post about the itchy dog.

When you are first trying to work up any sort of medical problem, your veterinarian begins with the signalment and history.

Signalment means: what kind of dog, how old is it, has it been spayed or neutered, and so on. Signalment is important because certain kinds of dogs are prone to certain kinds of problems. Also, some issues start at a certain point in life, and are unlikely if the patient isn’t in that age bracket. Other problems may not exist at all in the spayed or neutered pet–or may be more likely in the spayed or neutered pet. Signalment gives you a starting point for determining what’s going on.

History is equally as important, especially in working up the itchy dog. We need to know when the problem started, does it respond to treatment, does it relapse when the course of medication is completed, does there seem to be a pattern to when it occurs? Has there been a diet change, move to a new environment, new stressors in the house, are you using flea control, are there other pets in the house, and so on.

If I see an itchy dog in mid-summer in my region (Mid-Atlantic U.S.), and there is clear evidence of chewing at the tail head, even if the client tells me they have been using flea control, I’m going to look for fleas first until proven otherwise. Why? Because the flea populations explode at this time of year, many people are forgetful about using products until a problem gets out of control, and we can see resistance to medications over time. Or the client may not be treating all the animals because only the dog goes outside.

Did you know that cat fleas cause more allergic skin reactions on dogs than dog fleas do? Also, some of the worst flea infestations I’ve ever seen–to the point of needing blood transfusions–have been in 100% indoor cats because their people didn’t believe indoor pets could get fleas, and they were trapped in the house with them as the numbers rose. So make sure you discuss with your vet what your safe flea and tick control options are, and at the very least, run a flea comb through your cats the first of every month to make sure they don’t have a problem before it gets out of hand.

“Flea dirt” pulled off a combed pet that was supposed to be on flea control

But in other parts of the U.S., fleas aren’t even a issue! (Where are these parts and can I move there?) It’s true, some places out West, due to altitude, don’t have to deal with fleas.

Regardless, when presented with an itchy pet, the first thing I do is rule out ectoparasites. This means parasites that live on the outside of the body, such as fleas, skin mites, and lice. Many of these parasites can affect other members of the household, so history becomes important there, too. Are any of the other members of the house (including people) itchy as well? If so, the cause is more likely to be something contagious or that they are all exposed to, which puts an allergy to a specific thing lower on the list. Allergies aren’t contagious!

Ruling out ectoparasites isn’t always easy. Sometimes you find evidence of them by combing or performing skin scrapes. But just because you can’t find any signs of fleas or see mites under the microscope with a skin scraping doesn’t mean they aren’t there. Sadly, I’ve seen people spend thousands on working up their pet’s skin problems when a good dose of flea and tick control was all that was needed. Some of the newer oral medications also kill lice, as well as demodex and sarcoptes mange mites, even though they aren’t labeled for it. So don’t balk when your vet recommends a good flea product as part of the work up. It may save you money and heartache in the end.

But suppose your dog has been getting good ectoparasite control and is still itchy. Where your pet scratches and licks can be very important in narrowing down the problem. Does your dog have ear problems as well? Are there also digestion issues? If so, food may be a factor. Cats tend to demonstrate their allergic problems differently from dogs, so we’ll do a post about them in the future.

Generally speaking, working up allergic skin problems falls into two broad categories: seasonal or all year round. Seasonal allergies typically begin between 1-4 years of age and are worst during the spring and fall. Unfortunately, with age, they can start sooner and last longer until they are present almost year round, but initially there is a strong seasonal pattern.

“All year round” allergies tend to fall into two broad categories: food and environmental. Most vets recommend starting with a hypoallergenic food trial to rule out a food allergy because it can be easier to get definitive results and improvement than trying to manage environmental allergies. This is where I often run into resistance with clients. They don’t want to change their food. The guy who works at the pet store told them this was the best food to feed. They’ve already tried switching diets, freeze-dried food, avoiding chicken, etc.

Many years ago, there were not any commercial diets for hypoallergenic food trials for dogs. When a veterinary dermatologist wanted to put your dog on a food trial, they told you to cook lamb and rice, not because there was anything special about lamb and rice but because since they weren’t common ingredients in the kibble of the day, your dog was unlikely to already be allergic to it. This was called a novel protein diet. If it worked, it was because your dog had never eaten lamb before. There is nothing magical about a lamb and rice diet.

There is nothing magical about a lamb and rice diet.

When the dog food companies realized “lamb and rice is good for skin”, they began producing it. Many people fed it to their dogs. So vet dermatologists, looking for another novel protein diet for food trials, told their clients to feed fish and sweet potato… see where I’m going with this? Now there are so many specialty foods with so many specialty ingredients, finding a novel protein/novel carbohydrate diet can be challenging.

The grain-free pet food craze grew, in part, out of a culture where more and more people were eliminating glutens and grains from their lives, and also because wheat is a common food allergen in dogs, so by going grain-free, many dogs showed improvement in their allergies. At one time, I myself recommended grain-free diets to clients who couldn’t afford the pricey hypoallergenic foods. The dog food companies jumped on the bandwagon, sensing a new market and a clientele willing to pay higher prices for foods perceived to be healthier. The last time I checked, 90% of the kibble on the “Ten Best Dog Foods of the Year” kinds of lists were grain-free.

Then veterinarians began noticing a huge jump in an uncommon heart condition of middle-aged dogs known as cardiomyopathy. Dogs as young as 4 months of age as well as breeds not known for developing this disease were getting it. Breed clubs began working with vets to compile information and a pattern emerged. Of the 500+ cases examined in one study, 93% of the pets were on a grain-free diet. Now, correlation is not causation (meaning just because you see a pattern, doesn’t mean it’s the cause of the problem) but it was enough for the FDA to recommend not feeding grain free foods to your pets. Cardiologists, nutritionists, and dermatologists all speaking at the last veterinary conference I attended said the same.

The weird thing is that these foods have all the right ingredients in them in all the right amounts, but there is something about the pea/legume or potato-based diets that are preventing the heart-protective amino acids such as taurine and carnitine from being bioavailable to your pet (this is important in cats too).

So what do you do if you’re trying to figure out if your dog has a food allergy? The easiest way is to talk to your veterinarian about doing a true hypoallergenic food trial. Not playing dog food roulette by changing brands and flavors every few weeks. Not going grain free. Not even going “limited ingredient.” There are still prescription novel protein diets out there, but their effectiveness has decreased with the advent of so many dog foods containing a whole smorgasbord of ingredients. Also, we’re seeing now that if your dog is allergic to chicken, it may be allergic to duck as well. Same with beef and bison or venison.

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A true hypoallergenic food uses hydrolyzed protein instead of a novel one. In order to trigger an allergenic reaction, the protein must be of a certain molecular weight. By hydrolyzing the protein (using a chemical process to make it smaller on a molecular level) the source used doesn’t matter. A dog that’s allergic to chicken can’t react to hydrolyzed chicken.

Depending on the diet chosen, your typical food trial runs 4 to 12 weeks. NO OTHER FOOD OR TREATS but the hypoallergenic food are allowed during the trial (the exception being once-a-month heartworm or flea and tick meds). What we’re looking for is a 50% improvement in that time: less itching, less inflammation in the ears, less stomach or digestive issues. If you are seeing some improvement by 4 weeks, it’s usually recommended to extend the trial a bit longer to see if it is making a real difference. One of the problems of working up allergies is your pet can be allergic to multiple things. If you are seeing no improvement by the end of the food trial, then you can probably take food off the list and move on to looking for another source of the allergies.

Ears often take the longest time to show improvement, but in my opinion are the part of the body most frequently affected by food allergies. I’ve seen some dogs do great on a hypoallergenic diet only to relapse during spring and fall because of seasonal allergies on top of the food issues. Allergies are cumulative, meaning they add up, so if you know your pet has food or seasonal issues and then you get a flea problem on top of that, expect the skin problems and itching to explode!

You can try a novel protein diet instead. It may take longer to see results if you’re feeding rabbit and green peas than a hydrolyzed protein but it’s still valid to consider as a trial. Just be sure to get a prescription version (that has extra taurine and carnitine in it over the boutique versions), and understand that not only does cross-reactivity occur with certain proteins, but it is possible to develop an allergy over time to the new protein as well (which can’t happen with the hydrolyzed foods).

You can also cook for your dog. As I said before, this is what veterinarians used to recommend before there were prescription diets. The challenge here is finding a protein and carbohydrate source that you can get on a regular basis for the length of the trial that your dog hasn’t already eaten (because you typically aren’t allergic to foods you’ve never been exposed to before) and getting the vitamin and mineral balances right. I recommend using the website balanceit.com for creating a home cooked diet for your dog. You can plug in the protein and carb source you wish to use (for example, venison and brown rice) and they will help you determine proportions as well as create a vitamin and mineral combination to meet your home cooked diet’s needs. The new site even allows for combinations of additional oils and vegetables too. One of the advantages of cooking for your dog is this method can also eliminate less common food allergens, such as allergies to preservatives and grain mites. I had one client whose dog’s severe food allergies was controlled by freezing the food first, as her dog had a grain mite allergy. But that’s not the typical case!

The key here is that it’s crucial to conduct a true hypoallergenic food trial so you can rule food in or out as a player in your dog’s allergies. You may think you have, but unless you’ve conducted a trial with a prescription diet, this may not be the case.

If your dog turns out to have a food allergy, clap your hands and jump up and down with joy because this is truly one of the easiest types of allergies to manage and see real improvement! I believe every dollar spent on food will save you in medical bills and you’ll have a happier, healthier pet as a result.

We’ll talk about environmental allergies, how to identify them and manage them, in another post.

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Rabies: What You Need to Know to Protect You and Your Pet

Most people have heard of the rabies virus. It’s one of the few vaccinations required by law here in the U.S. for dogs and cats, with some areas requiring you to purchase licenses as well to document your pet’s up to date status.

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Some people know that rabies is only transmitted by mammals, which are fur-bearing creatures that also produce milk for their young. ANY mammal can develop and spread rabies, but in reality, there are four main species here in the U.S. we consider at high risk for spreading rabies: foxes, skunks, raccoons, and bats. Worldwide, dogs are the most common source of rabies (which is something you need to consider when traveling to countries where rabies is present), but dogs typically only make up 5% of the rabies cases in the U.S. In the Americas, bats are the most common source of the infection. This is due in part to vaccination protocols for pets.

I’ll never forget the time I saw a documentary about the number of urban foxes living in London, and how some people fed them like squirrels. Much as I love foxes, I was aghast at this notion until I remembered rabies isn’t present in the United Kingdom. That’s one of the reasons it is so difficult to get a dog or cat into certain countries (or Hawaii, for that matter). They don’t have rabies in these places (often islands or continents isolated by water) and they don’t want it there.

“What does rabies do to you anyway?”

That was the question a client asked when I plead with her at the VERY LEAST, please vaccinate the feral tom cat she allowed to sleep on her toddler’s bed every night.

Mentally, I shouted, “GO RENT Ol’ YELLER!”

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Sometimes I think that vaccinations are the victims of their own success. Because we’ve eradicated or limited the damage of so many serious diseases due to vaccination, there are many people out there who believe the vaccination is more harmful than the disease itself, or who don’t realize just how important vaccination is to public safety.

Instead of yelling at my clueless client, I explained that rabies is a virus that causes inflammation of the brain. There is no way to diagnose it in the living person before symptoms appear, and it is almost always fatal once symptoms do appear. While most people assume the only way to get rabies is by being bitten by a rabid animal, saliva from an infected animal can transmit the virus if the spit comes into contact with broken skin, or in the eyes, nose, and mouth. The virus is also present in the spinal fluid of affected animals, which is another reason why you must be very careful how you handle an animal you suspect might have rabies.

Once the virus gets into the nervous system, it travels very slowly to the brain. It typically takes anywhere from one to three months for someone who has contracted the disease to begin showing symptoms, though the closer the area of exposure is to the brain (say the eye versus being bitten on the foot), the shorter the time course of the disease. The symptoms vary so much, it can be hard to identify them at first. Humans may experience nausea, uncontrollable movements, an inability to swallow, confusion, and coma. Photophobia (an avoidance of bright light) can also be a symptom. Dogs and cats often show behavioral changes, including aggression and uncontrollable seizures. They frequently salivate heavily and avoid water, not because they are afraid of water (hydrophobia) but because it hurts so much to swallow, there is an avoidance factor at work. In the “dumb” form (the non-aggressive kind) of rabies, wild animals will often act tame, or appear drunk and disoriented. They can circle aimlessly or appear partially paralyzed. Self-mutilation is not uncommon.

As of 2016, only fourteen people have survived rabies once they developed clinical signs.

This is why it is critical to start post-exposure vaccination and immunotherapy as soon as any potential exposure occurs, as this is very effective in preventing the development of the disease.

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Wait a minute, I can hear you say. You said it can take months for the symptoms to appear, but we only quarantine a suspected rabid dog or cat for 14 days. More on the reason behind that when we discuss what to do in the face of a possible exposure.

Vaccination is the hero in the rabies prevention story. Worldwide vaccination of humans has decreased the risk of mortality in those regions where rabies is rampant. Here in the U.S., people in high-risk professions (such as veterinarians, support staff, and people who work with wildlife) get vaccinated to help protect them in the face of exposure. Because it is not unusual for people who get vaccinated for rabies to develop reactions to this particular vaccine, instead of getting booster shots, people who have been protectively vaccinated against rabies undergo titer testing every couple of years to make sure they have a protective level of antibodies in case of exposure.

Having a protective titer doesn’t mean you don’t get boosted if you do get exposed, however! Let’s walk through the different scenarios.

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I mentioned above that when a dog, cat, or ferret bites someone, it is only quarantined for 14 days in most parts of the U.S. That is because we know if an animal bites you because it has rabies (and not because it was scared or aggressive), it will die from the disease within that time frame. So, if a dog or cat bites someone, regardless of its rabies vaccination status, the health department will insist on a quarantine period. Because rabies vaccination is so effective, however, the restrictiveness of the quarantine for a pet is likely to be less severe than if the rabies status of the animal is unknown (as in a feral animal).

That is not to say that animals vaccinated for rabies are always completely protected in the face of exposure. There can be issues with a vaccine lot number, or improper handling of the vaccine itself (such as vaccines that should be refrigerated arriving with the ice packs melted, or a power outage resulting in the storage unit getting too hot). The rabies vaccination may also fail to take effect if the animal is ill at the time of vaccination. I have to vaccinate a puppy by 16 weeks of age because it’s required by law in my area, but if that puppy has severe demodectic mange (which could indicate a compromised immune system), I’m going to recommend an additional rabies booster once the medical condition is resolved. These are just some of the reasons that a companion animal might need to be quarantined despite proof of vaccination.

If a wild animal bites someone, and can be caught, it will be humanely destroyed and have its head removed because examination of brain matter is the only way to test for rabies at this time. Because it is imperative that rabies prophylaxis treatment begins right away when humans are bitten, there are no exceptions if this occurs. And because wolf-hybrids are considered wild species (and rabies vaccines were not tested or approved for use in those species), there is no quarantine period if a wolf-hybrid bites someone. It is automatically euthanized. Many of the people who boast of having a wolf-hybrid have no such thing. In reality they have a mix of one of the Arctic Circle breeds, such as a Siberian Husky or Alaskan Malamute. Please, please, please do DNA testing on your dog before you go around telling people it is a wolf-hybrid.

In order to be tested for rabies (and in order for you to avoid undergoing the expensive and uncomfortable post-exposure treatment), the brain of the affected animal must be examined. This means it is critical that if you must shoot a wild animal attacking you or your pets, you avoid shooting it in the head if at all possible. Not only will it make it nearly impossible to test for rabies if the head is destroyed, but you could well have explosively scattered bits of rabies-infected material all over everyone nearby. It is also critical that testing be done as soon as possible. Animals that have begun to decay in a hot environment may not have viable brain matter to test. DO NOT FREEZE ANY CARCASSES. Freezing will also destroy the rabies virus and prevent identification. Ideally, the remains should be refrigerated and taken either directly to the nearest state laboratory or to a professional equipped to safely remove the head for shipment. Remember, the virus is in the central spinal fluid as well as in the saliva.

The real issue is when you are dealing with the potential exposure to you or your pet by a rabid animal such as a racoon or bat. Remember the long incubation period? So, while we know that if an animal bites you because is it rabid, it will die in a specific period of time due to the disease. It will take you or your pet weeks to months to show signs of illness if you are exposed.

There are a couple of different scenarios to look at here. Let’s take the animal contact ones first before examining the human contact situations.

First: Your vaccinated pet comes into contact with a wild animal, but you are unable to present it for rabies testing because it ran off. Your pet’s rabies vaccine is up to date. The health department will probably recommend boosting the rabies vaccination right away and no quarantine period, depending on the degree of contact and if there was any human involvement as well. Your pet should be examined for wounds by your veterinarian.

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Second: Your up to date, vaccinated pet fights with a wild animal which is then killed or trapped by either your pet or you. If the animal is deceased, you should (wearing gloves and a mask) bag the dead animal and contact the health department. If the animal is still alive, leave it completely alone and contact the health department. If it is after hours and you cannot get someone out to you, contain the wild animal as best as possible if doing so will not risk further exposure to you or your pet. Try to get animal control out as soon as possible so the wild animal can be safely euthanized and tested.

If the wild animal doesn’t have rabies, all is well. If the animal DOES have rabies, then the health department will institute some kind of quarantine period for at least 45 days. This is because no vaccine is 100% effective (as we discussed earlier) and because on average, an animal infected by rabies will develop clinical signs by this time. However, because rabies vaccination is considered very effective, usually the quarantine procedure will not be as restrictive (must remain confined on the property, such as in a pen or a horse stall, only one person designated to care for the animal, etc.) as it would be if the pet were not up to date on vaccination. The rabies vaccine may be boosted at the beginning of the quarantine period or the end, depending on the locality and regulations.

Third: The exposed pet in question is NOT up to date, or worse, has never been vaccinated at all. Now the health department will institute very strict quarantine protocols. Most departments will require the pet to be confined in a pen inside another pen, with no possibility of human contact whatsoever for six months. This is very upsetting to a well-socialized pet accustomed to being part of the family, but it is devastating to a young animal that hasn’t had much human contact in the first place.

I will never forget the tragedy of having to euthanize an entire litter of seven-week-old Labrador Retriever puppies. We’d just seen them the week before for their first distemper/parvo vaccines. A confirmed rabid skunk got in the pen with them, and their breeder made the heartbreaking decision to euthanize them rather than attempt to quarantine them under the strict guidelines. They realized at the end of the six-month period that the puppies would be impossible to rehome, as they would have been more like wild animals than dogs raised in a loving environment.

Remember what I said about bats being the most common source of rabies exposure in the U.S.? Do not assume that that your 100% indoor pet doesn’t need rabies vaccination. It does because it’s the law. It does because if your pet bites a visitor (or in one case I know, the person rescuing it during a house fire), the health department will get involved. And lastly, I know of three clients who have had rabid bats get into their homes. Keep your pets legal and safe!

The health department must be merciless when it comes to protecting the public from a possible rabies exposure. It has to be. I recall many years ago when someone exposed over forty people at a church social to rabies by bringing a baby raccoon to the event. The rabies vector species can be carrying the virus at birth, and raccoons can have rabies without showing any clinical signs. Every person exposed at that event had to undergo the expensive and uncomfortable post-exposure series of shots.

The fact remains that over 70% of rabies cases in the U.S. are as the result of bat bites or scratches. Many times, the victim has no recollection of when the exposure occurred. The other cases are usually due to contact with wildlife, and after that, contact with a rabid companion species, such as a dog or cat. Because many communities don’t require licenses for them, cats are more likely to not be current on their rabies vaccinations. Because outdoor cats hunt, hang around barns, and their feeding stations can attract wildlife, cats often come into contact with the vector species. As a professional, I can tell you it is frustrating to be presented with a sick pet and not be able to immediately take rabies off the list of possible problems.

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Livestock are also at risk of exposure to rabies-vector species, and you should talk to your veterinarian about vaccination.

What happens when there is human exposure, such as the example of the church picnic?

The protocols vary on an individual basis, depending on how much contact you had with the affected animal, and whether or not it can be proven the animal was indeed rabid. You must work closely with the health department and your doctor to determine what is best for you.

If you have never had the pre-exposure rabies vaccination series, recommended for anyone working in a high-risk profession (veterinary medicine, wildlife management, etc.), then if it is determined you need post-exposure treatment, you will be given a large dose of immunoglobulins first. This is to give you an immediate passive transfer of antibodies against the virus. It’s called passive transfer because these are not antibodies you created yourself. Think of passive transfer like a large patch on a deep, bleeding wound. It will stop the bleeding long enough for you to get to the hospital, but you’re still going to need stitches to close the wound.

The immunoglobulin therapy (large volume given by injection in a large muscle, probably the one you sit on) is then followed by a series of rabies vaccinations. Currently, the protocol requires a series of five boosters given over a period of many weeks. This stimulates your own immune system to create an active antibody response to the threat. This is necessary because passively transferred antibodies won’t hang around for the months and months needed to completely protect you if the virus gets into your nervous system.

What happens if a previously vaccinated person gets exposed to a rabid animal? That happened to me. A dog came in on emergency having seizures. It was a stray dog the family had been feeding for about a month. The differential list of possible problems included organophosphate poisoning, mushroom toxicity, epilepsy, canine distemper, and rabies. The patient’s lab work was unremarkable, and he appeared to respond to strong anticonvulsants as the seizures stopped and his behavior was completely normal.

Twenty-four hours later, he died.

We insisted on rabies testing, much to the resistance of everyone involved. Rabies wasn’t considered very high on the rule-out list, and the dog hadn’t bitten anyone. But we persisted, and the dog came back positive for rabies.

When a pre-vaccinated person is exposed to rabies, the first thing they do is they check your rabies titer. If your titer is below the recommended levels for protection, you are treated like an unvaccinated person and must get the immunoglobulin therapy as well as the five booster shots. If your titer is good, they skip the immunoglobulin therapy and give you only two boosters.

It doesn’t matter if the titer is considered “good.” Rabies is almost always fatal, so booster shots are ALWAYS given to the pre-vaccinated person. The titer determines how many and if the immunoglobulin is needed or not.

I was fortunate enough to have a strong titer, and only needed two boosters, which is good because I developed hives from head to foot after the second booster and was told I could not take anything systematically to treat them—no Benadryl, no steroids. Anything I took to minimize the symptoms might limit the effectiveness my immune response to the vaccination. The only thing I was allowed to use was a little over the counter topical cortisone cream.

As I mentioned before, because reaction to rabies vaccination in humans is common, instead of getting regular rabies vaccinations like your dog or cat, people get their titers checked every couple of years and only get boosted if the titer is low. I’m lucky in that my titer has been high ever since, so I have not needed additional boosters, but that could change if I am exposed to another rabid animal. At the same time, I consider myself lucky I live in a time when vaccinations can protect both myself and our pets against such a devastating disease.

Don’t take the risk of having an unvaccinated pet. While there may be medical exceptions at times, vaccinating your pet for rabies is the safest, smartest thing you can do.

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