Help! My Dog is Itchy! Part 1: Fleas and Food

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The other night, I broke one of my cardinal rules and got involved in a discussion about pet health care on Facebook.

Someone posted about their dog’s chronic ear problems, and asked for help, particularly from the veterinary community.

I find this sort of situation frustrating. Obviously, this person has struggled to find an answer for her dog’s problems. Having been to several vets without success, she turned to social media. The amount of incorrect and potentially dangerous information I see on these kinds of posts makes it hard for me to resist weighing in, but most of the time, I can fight the urge.

But this time, I tried to help, and very quickly, the poster became defensive at both my line of questioning and recommendations.

“We’ve already switched her food several times. We’ve already tried this product. That drug didn’t work.”

I don’t blame the poster for feeling as though my questions were unhelpful or that we were treading down the same road previously traveled without success. It made me realize two things: social media really isn’t the best place to disseminate information and I needed to write a blog post about the itchy dog.

When you are first trying to work up any sort of medical problem, your veterinarian begins with the signalment and history.

Signalment means: what kind of dog, how old is it, has it been spayed or neutered, and so on. Signalment is important because certain kinds of dogs are prone to certain kinds of problems. Also, some issues start at a certain point in life, and are unlikely if the patient isn’t in that age bracket. Other problems may not exist at all in the spayed or neutered pet–or may be more likely in the spayed or neutered pet. Signalment gives you a starting point for determining what’s going on.

History is equally as important, especially in working up the itchy dog. We need to know when the problem started, does it respond to treatment, does it relapse when the course of medication is completed, does there seem to be a pattern to when it occurs? Has there been a diet change, move to a new environment, new stressors in the house, are you using flea control, are there other pets in the house, and so on.

If I see an itchy dog in mid-summer in my region (Mid-Atlantic U.S.), and there is clear evidence of chewing at the tail head, even if the client tells me they have been using flea control, I’m going to look for fleas first until proven otherwise. Why? Because the flea populations explode at this time of year, many people are forgetful about using products until a problem gets out of control, and we can see resistance to medications over time. Or the client may not be treating all the animals because only the dog goes outside.

Did you know that cat fleas cause more allergic skin reactions on dogs than dog fleas do? Also, some of the worst flea infestations I’ve ever seen–to the point of needing blood transfusions–have been in 100% indoor cats because their people didn’t believe indoor pets could get fleas, and they were trapped in the house with them as the numbers rose. So make sure you discuss with your vet what your safe flea and tick control options are, and at the very least, run a flea comb through your cats the first of every month to make sure they don’t have a problem before it gets out of hand.

“Flea dirt” pulled off a combed pet that was supposed to be on flea control

But in other parts of the U.S., fleas aren’t even a issue! (Where are these parts and can I move there?) It’s true, some places out West, due to altitude, don’t have to deal with fleas.

Regardless, when presented with an itchy pet, the first thing I do is rule out ectoparasites. This means parasites that live on the outside of the body, such as fleas, skin mites, and lice. Many of these parasites can affect other members of the household, so history becomes important there, too. Are any of the other members of the house (including people) itchy as well? If so, the cause is more likely to be something contagious or that they are all exposed to, which puts an allergy to a specific thing lower on the list. Allergies aren’t contagious!

Ruling out ectoparasites isn’t always easy. Sometimes you find evidence of them by combing or performing skin scrapes. But just because you can’t find any signs of fleas or see mites under the microscope with a skin scraping doesn’t mean they aren’t there. Sadly, I’ve seen people spend thousands on working up their pet’s skin problems when a good dose of flea and tick control was all that was needed. Some of the newer oral medications also kill lice, as well as demodex and sarcoptes mange mites, even though they aren’t labeled for it. So don’t balk when your vet recommends a good flea product as part of the work up. It may save you money and heartache in the end.

But suppose your dog has been getting good ectoparasite control and is still itchy. Where your pet scratches and licks can be very important in narrowing down the problem. Does your dog have ear problems as well? Are there also digestion issues? If so, food may be a factor. Cats tend to demonstrate their allergic problems differently from dogs, so we’ll do a post about them in the future.

Generally speaking, working up allergic skin problems falls into two broad categories: seasonal or all year round. Seasonal allergies typically begin between 1-4 years of age and are worst during the spring and fall. Unfortunately, with age, they can start sooner and last longer until they are present almost year round, but initially there is a strong seasonal pattern.

“All year round” allergies tend to fall into two broad categories: food and environmental. Most vets recommend starting with a hypoallergenic food trial to rule out a food allergy because it can be easier to get definitive results and improvement than trying to manage environmental allergies. This is where I often run into resistance with clients. They don’t want to change their food. The guy who works at the pet store told them this was the best food to feed. They’ve already tried switching diets, freeze-dried food, avoiding chicken, etc.

Many years ago, there were not any commercial diets for hypoallergenic food trials for dogs. When a veterinary dermatologist wanted to put your dog on a food trial, they told you to cook lamb and rice, not because there was anything special about lamb and rice but because since they weren’t common ingredients in the kibble of the day, your dog was unlikely to already be allergic to it. This was called a novel protein diet. If it worked, it was because your dog had never eaten lamb before. There is nothing magical about a lamb and rice diet.

There is nothing magical about a lamb and rice diet.

When the dog food companies realized “lamb and rice is good for skin”, they began producing it. Many people fed it to their dogs. So vet dermatologists, looking for another novel protein diet for food trials, told their clients to feed fish and sweet potato… see where I’m going with this? Now there are so many specialty foods with so many specialty ingredients, finding a novel protein/novel carbohydrate diet can be challenging.

The grain-free pet food craze grew, in part, out of a culture where more and more people were eliminating glutens and grains from their lives, and also because wheat is a common food allergen in dogs, so by going grain-free, many dogs showed improvement in their allergies. At one time, I myself recommended grain-free diets to clients who couldn’t afford the pricey hypoallergenic foods. The dog food companies jumped on the bandwagon, sensing a new market and a clientele willing to pay higher prices for foods perceived to be healthier. The last time I checked, 90% of the kibble on the “Ten Best Dog Foods of the Year” kinds of lists were grain-free.

Then veterinarians began noticing a huge jump in an uncommon heart condition of middle-aged dogs known as cardiomyopathy. Dogs as young as 4 months of age as well as breeds not known for developing this disease were getting it. Breed clubs began working with vets to compile information and a pattern emerged. Of the 500+ cases examined in one study, 93% of the pets were on a grain-free diet. Now, correlation is not causation (meaning just because you see a pattern, doesn’t mean it’s the cause of the problem) but it was enough for the FDA to recommend not feeding grain free foods to your pets. Cardiologists, nutritionists, and dermatologists all speaking at the last veterinary conference I attended said the same.

The weird thing is that these foods have all the right ingredients in them in all the right amounts, but there is something about the pea/legume or potato-based diets that are preventing the heart-protective amino acids such as taurine and carnitine from being bioavailable to your pet (this is important in cats too).

So what do you do if you’re trying to figure out if your dog has a food allergy? The easiest way is to talk to your veterinarian about doing a true hypoallergenic food trial. Not playing dog food roulette by changing brands and flavors every few weeks. Not going grain free. Not even going “limited ingredient.” There are still prescription novel protein diets out there, but their effectiveness has decreased with the advent of so many dog foods containing a whole smorgasbord of ingredients. Also, we’re seeing now that if your dog is allergic to chicken, it may be allergic to duck as well. Same with beef and bison or venison.

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A true hypoallergenic food uses hydrolyzed protein instead of a novel one. In order to trigger an allergenic reaction, the protein must be of a certain molecular weight. By hydrolyzing the protein (using a chemical process to make it smaller on a molecular level) the source used doesn’t matter. A dog that’s allergic to chicken can’t react to hydrolyzed chicken.

Depending on the diet chosen, your typical food trial runs 4 to 12 weeks. NO OTHER FOOD OR TREATS but the hypoallergenic food are allowed during the trial (the exception being once-a-month heartworm or flea and tick meds). What we’re looking for is a 50% improvement in that time: less itching, less inflammation in the ears, less stomach or digestive issues. If you are seeing some improvement by 4 weeks, it’s usually recommended to extend the trial a bit longer to see if it is making a real difference. One of the problems of working up allergies is your pet can be allergic to multiple things. If you are seeing no improvement by the end of the food trial, then you can probably take food off the list and move on to looking for another source of the allergies.

Ears often take the longest time to show improvement, but in my opinion are the part of the body most frequently affected by food allergies. I’ve seen some dogs do great on a hypoallergenic diet only to relapse during spring and fall because of seasonal allergies on top of the food issues. Allergies are cumulative, meaning they add up, so if you know your pet has food or seasonal issues and then you get a flea problem on top of that, expect the skin problems and itching to explode!

You can try a novel protein diet instead. It may take longer to see results if you’re feeding rabbit and green peas than a hydrolyzed protein but it’s still valid to consider as a trial. Just be sure to get a prescription version (that has extra taurine and carnitine in it over the boutique versions), and understand that not only does cross-reactivity occur with certain proteins, but it is possible to develop an allergy over time to the new protein as well (which can’t happen with the hydrolyzed foods).

You can also cook for your dog. As I said before, this is what veterinarians used to recommend before there were prescription diets. The challenge here is finding a protein and carbohydrate source that you can get on a regular basis for the length of the trial that your dog hasn’t already eaten (because you typically aren’t allergic to foods you’ve never been exposed to before) and getting the vitamin and mineral balances right. I recommend using the website balanceit.com for creating a home cooked diet for your dog. You can plug in the protein and carb source you wish to use (for example, venison and brown rice) and they will help you determine proportions as well as create a vitamin and mineral combination to meet your home cooked diet’s needs. The new site even allows for combinations of additional oils and vegetables too. One of the advantages of cooking for your dog is this method can also eliminate less common food allergens, such as allergies to preservatives and grain mites. I had one client whose dog’s severe food allergies was controlled by freezing the food first, as her dog had a grain mite allergy. But that’s not the typical case!

The key here is that it’s crucial to conduct a true hypoallergenic food trial so you can rule food in or out as a player in your dog’s allergies. You may think you have, but unless you’ve conducted a trial with a prescription diet, this may not be the case.

If your dog turns out to have a food allergy, clap your hands and jump up and down with joy because this is truly one of the easiest types of allergies to manage and see real improvement! I believe every dollar spent on food will save you in medical bills and you’ll have a happier, healthier pet as a result.

We’ll talk about environmental allergies, how to identify them and manage them, in another post.

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Rabies: What You Need to Know to Protect You and Your Pet

Most people have heard of the rabies virus. It’s one of the few vaccinations required by law here in the U.S. for dogs and cats, with some areas requiring you to purchase licenses as well to document your pet’s up to date status.

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Some people know that rabies is only transmitted by mammals, which are fur-bearing creatures that also produce milk for their young. ANY mammal can develop and spread rabies, but in reality, there are four main species here in the U.S. we consider at high risk for spreading rabies: foxes, skunks, raccoons, and bats. Worldwide, dogs are the most common source of rabies (which is something you need to consider when traveling to countries where rabies is present), but dogs typically only make up 5% of the rabies cases in the U.S. In the Americas, bats are the most common source of the infection. This is due in part to vaccination protocols for pets.

I’ll never forget the time I saw a documentary about the number of urban foxes living in London, and how some people fed them like squirrels. Much as I love foxes, I was aghast at this notion until I remembered rabies isn’t present in the United Kingdom. That’s one of the reasons it is so difficult to get a dog or cat into certain countries (or Hawaii, for that matter). They don’t have rabies in these places (often islands or continents isolated by water) and they don’t want it there.

“What does rabies do to you anyway?”

That was the question a client asked when I plead with her at the VERY LEAST, please vaccinate the feral tom cat she allowed to sleep on her toddler’s bed every night.

Mentally, I shouted, “GO RENT Ol’ YELLER!”

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Sometimes I think that vaccinations are the victims of their own success. Because we’ve eradicated or limited the damage of so many serious diseases due to vaccination, there are many people out there who believe the vaccination is more harmful than the disease itself, or who don’t realize just how important vaccination is to public safety.

Instead of yelling at my clueless client, I explained that rabies is a virus that causes inflammation of the brain. There is no way to diagnose it in the living person before symptoms appear, and it is almost always fatal once symptoms do appear. While most people assume the only way to get rabies is by being bitten by a rabid animal, saliva from an infected animal can transmit the virus if the spit comes into contact with broken skin, or in the eyes, nose, and mouth. The virus is also present in the spinal fluid of affected animals, which is another reason why you must be very careful how you handle an animal you suspect might have rabies.

Once the virus gets into the nervous system, it travels very slowly to the brain. It typically takes anywhere from one to three months for someone who has contracted the disease to begin showing symptoms, though the closer the area of exposure is to the brain (say the eye versus being bitten on the foot), the shorter the time course of the disease. The symptoms vary so much, it can be hard to identify them at first. Humans may experience nausea, uncontrollable movements, an inability to swallow, confusion, and coma. Photophobia (an avoidance of bright light) can also be a symptom. Dogs and cats often show behavioral changes, including aggression and uncontrollable seizures. They frequently salivate heavily and avoid water, not because they are afraid of water (hydrophobia) but because it hurts so much to swallow, there is an avoidance factor at work. In the “dumb” form (the non-aggressive kind) of rabies, wild animals will often act tame, or appear drunk and disoriented. They can circle aimlessly or appear partially paralyzed. Self-mutilation is not uncommon.

As of 2016, only fourteen people have survived rabies once they developed clinical signs.

This is why it is critical to start post-exposure vaccination and immunotherapy as soon as any potential exposure occurs, as this is very effective in preventing the development of the disease.

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Wait a minute, I can hear you say. You said it can take months for the symptoms to appear, but we only quarantine a suspected rabid dog or cat for 14 days. More on the reason behind that when we discuss what to do in the face of a possible exposure.

Vaccination is the hero in the rabies prevention story. Worldwide vaccination of humans has decreased the risk of mortality in those regions where rabies is rampant. Here in the U.S., people in high-risk professions (such as veterinarians, support staff, and people who work with wildlife) get vaccinated to help protect them in the face of exposure. Because it is not unusual for people who get vaccinated for rabies to develop reactions to this particular vaccine, instead of getting booster shots, people who have been protectively vaccinated against rabies undergo titer testing every couple of years to make sure they have a protective level of antibodies in case of exposure.

Having a protective titer doesn’t mean you don’t get boosted if you do get exposed, however! Let’s walk through the different scenarios.

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I mentioned above that when a dog, cat, or ferret bites someone, it is only quarantined for 14 days in most parts of the U.S. That is because we know if an animal bites you because it has rabies (and not because it was scared or aggressive), it will die from the disease within that time frame. So, if a dog or cat bites someone, regardless of its rabies vaccination status, the health department will insist on a quarantine period. Because rabies vaccination is so effective, however, the restrictiveness of the quarantine for a pet is likely to be less severe than if the rabies status of the animal is unknown (as in a feral animal).

That is not to say that animals vaccinated for rabies are always completely protected in the face of exposure. There can be issues with a vaccine lot number, or improper handling of the vaccine itself (such as vaccines that should be refrigerated arriving with the ice packs melted, or a power outage resulting in the storage unit getting too hot). The rabies vaccination may also fail to take effect if the animal is ill at the time of vaccination. I have to vaccinate a puppy by 16 weeks of age because it’s required by law in my area, but if that puppy has severe demodectic mange (which could indicate a compromised immune system), I’m going to recommend an additional rabies booster once the medical condition is resolved. These are just some of the reasons that a companion animal might need to be quarantined despite proof of vaccination.

If a wild animal bites someone, and can be caught, it will be humanely destroyed and have its head removed because examination of brain matter is the only way to test for rabies at this time. Because it is imperative that rabies prophylaxis treatment begins right away when humans are bitten, there are no exceptions if this occurs. And because wolf-hybrids are considered wild species (and rabies vaccines were not tested or approved for use in those species), there is no quarantine period if a wolf-hybrid bites someone. It is automatically euthanized. Many of the people who boast of having a wolf-hybrid have no such thing. In reality they have a mix of one of the Arctic Circle breeds, such as a Siberian Husky or Alaskan Malamute. Please, please, please do DNA testing on your dog before you go around telling people it is a wolf-hybrid.

In order to be tested for rabies (and in order for you to avoid undergoing the expensive and uncomfortable post-exposure treatment), the brain of the affected animal must be examined. This means it is critical that if you must shoot a wild animal attacking you or your pets, you avoid shooting it in the head if at all possible. Not only will it make it nearly impossible to test for rabies if the head is destroyed, but you could well have explosively scattered bits of rabies-infected material all over everyone nearby. It is also critical that testing be done as soon as possible. Animals that have begun to decay in a hot environment may not have viable brain matter to test. DO NOT FREEZE ANY CARCASSES. Freezing will also destroy the rabies virus and prevent identification. Ideally, the remains should be refrigerated and taken either directly to the nearest state laboratory or to a professional equipped to safely remove the head for shipment. Remember, the virus is in the central spinal fluid as well as in the saliva.

The real issue is when you are dealing with the potential exposure to you or your pet by a rabid animal such as a racoon or bat. Remember the long incubation period? So, while we know that if an animal bites you because is it rabid, it will die in a specific period of time due to the disease. It will take you or your pet weeks to months to show signs of illness if you are exposed.

There are a couple of different scenarios to look at here. Let’s take the animal contact ones first before examining the human contact situations.

First: Your vaccinated pet comes into contact with a wild animal, but you are unable to present it for rabies testing because it ran off. Your pet’s rabies vaccine is up to date. The health department will probably recommend boosting the rabies vaccination right away and no quarantine period, depending on the degree of contact and if there was any human involvement as well. Your pet should be examined for wounds by your veterinarian.

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Second: Your up to date, vaccinated pet fights with a wild animal which is then killed or trapped by either your pet or you. If the animal is deceased, you should (wearing gloves and a mask) bag the dead animal and contact the health department. If the animal is still alive, leave it completely alone and contact the health department. If it is after hours and you cannot get someone out to you, contain the wild animal as best as possible if doing so will not risk further exposure to you or your pet. Try to get animal control out as soon as possible so the wild animal can be safely euthanized and tested.

If the wild animal doesn’t have rabies, all is well. If the animal DOES have rabies, then the health department will institute some kind of quarantine period for at least 45 days. This is because no vaccine is 100% effective (as we discussed earlier) and because on average, an animal infected by rabies will develop clinical signs by this time. However, because rabies vaccination is considered very effective, usually the quarantine procedure will not be as restrictive (must remain confined on the property, such as in a pen or a horse stall, only one person designated to care for the animal, etc.) as it would be if the pet were not up to date on vaccination. The rabies vaccine may be boosted at the beginning of the quarantine period or the end, depending on the locality and regulations.

Third: The exposed pet in question is NOT up to date, or worse, has never been vaccinated at all. Now the health department will institute very strict quarantine protocols. Most departments will require the pet to be confined in a pen inside another pen, with no possibility of human contact whatsoever for six months. This is very upsetting to a well-socialized pet accustomed to being part of the family, but it is devastating to a young animal that hasn’t had much human contact in the first place.

I will never forget the tragedy of having to euthanize an entire litter of seven-week-old Labrador Retriever puppies. We’d just seen them the week before for their first distemper/parvo vaccines. A confirmed rabid skunk got in the pen with them, and their breeder made the heartbreaking decision to euthanize them rather than attempt to quarantine them under the strict guidelines. They realized at the end of the six-month period that the puppies would be impossible to rehome, as they would have been more like wild animals than dogs raised in a loving environment.

Remember what I said about bats being the most common source of rabies exposure in the U.S.? Do not assume that that your 100% indoor pet doesn’t need rabies vaccination. It does because it’s the law. It does because if your pet bites a visitor (or in one case I know, the person rescuing it during a house fire), the health department will get involved. And lastly, I know of three clients who have had rabid bats get into their homes. Keep your pets legal and safe!

The health department must be merciless when it comes to protecting the public from a possible rabies exposure. It has to be. I recall many years ago when someone exposed over forty people at a church social to rabies by bringing a baby raccoon to the event. The rabies vector species can be carrying the virus at birth, and raccoons can have rabies without showing any clinical signs. Every person exposed at that event had to undergo the expensive and uncomfortable post-exposure series of shots.

The fact remains that over 70% of rabies cases in the U.S. are as the result of bat bites or scratches. Many times, the victim has no recollection of when the exposure occurred. The other cases are usually due to contact with wildlife, and after that, contact with a rabid companion species, such as a dog or cat. Because many communities don’t require licenses for them, cats are more likely to not be current on their rabies vaccinations. Because outdoor cats hunt, hang around barns, and their feeding stations can attract wildlife, cats often come into contact with the vector species. As a professional, I can tell you it is frustrating to be presented with a sick pet and not be able to immediately take rabies off the list of possible problems.

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Livestock are also at risk of exposure to rabies-vector species, and you should talk to your veterinarian about vaccination.

What happens when there is human exposure, such as the example of the church picnic?

The protocols vary on an individual basis, depending on how much contact you had with the affected animal, and whether or not it can be proven the animal was indeed rabid. You must work closely with the health department and your doctor to determine what is best for you.

If you have never had the pre-exposure rabies vaccination series, recommended for anyone working in a high-risk profession (veterinary medicine, wildlife management, etc.), then if it is determined you need post-exposure treatment, you will be given a large dose of immunoglobulins first. This is to give you an immediate passive transfer of antibodies against the virus. It’s called passive transfer because these are not antibodies you created yourself. Think of passive transfer like a large patch on a deep, bleeding wound. It will stop the bleeding long enough for you to get to the hospital, but you’re still going to need stitches to close the wound.

The immunoglobulin therapy (large volume given by injection in a large muscle, probably the one you sit on) is then followed by a series of rabies vaccinations. Currently, the protocol requires a series of five boosters given over a period of many weeks. This stimulates your own immune system to create an active antibody response to the threat. This is necessary because passively transferred antibodies won’t hang around for the months and months needed to completely protect you if the virus gets into your nervous system.

What happens if a previously vaccinated person gets exposed to a rabid animal? That happened to me. A dog came in on emergency having seizures. It was a stray dog the family had been feeding for about a month. The differential list of possible problems included organophosphate poisoning, mushroom toxicity, epilepsy, canine distemper, and rabies. The patient’s lab work was unremarkable, and he appeared to respond to strong anticonvulsants as the seizures stopped and his behavior was completely normal.

Twenty-four hours later, he died.

We insisted on rabies testing, much to the resistance of everyone involved. Rabies wasn’t considered very high on the rule-out list, and the dog hadn’t bitten anyone. But we persisted, and the dog came back positive for rabies.

When a pre-vaccinated person is exposed to rabies, the first thing they do is they check your rabies titer. If your titer is below the recommended levels for protection, you are treated like an unvaccinated person and must get the immunoglobulin therapy as well as the five booster shots. If your titer is good, they skip the immunoglobulin therapy and give you only two boosters.

It doesn’t matter if the titer is considered “good.” Rabies is almost always fatal, so booster shots are ALWAYS given to the pre-vaccinated person. The titer determines how many and if the immunoglobulin is needed or not.

I was fortunate enough to have a strong titer, and only needed two boosters, which is good because I developed hives from head to foot after the second booster and was told I could not take anything systematically to treat them—no Benadryl, no steroids. Anything I took to minimize the symptoms might limit the effectiveness my immune response to the vaccination. The only thing I was allowed to use was a little over the counter topical cortisone cream.

As I mentioned before, because reaction to rabies vaccination in humans is common, instead of getting regular rabies vaccinations like your dog or cat, people get their titers checked every couple of years and only get boosted if the titer is low. I’m lucky in that my titer has been high ever since, so I have not needed additional boosters, but that could change if I am exposed to another rabid animal. At the same time, I consider myself lucky I live in a time when vaccinations can protect both myself and our pets against such a devastating disease.

Don’t take the risk of having an unvaccinated pet. While there may be medical exceptions at times, vaccinating your pet for rabies is the safest, smartest thing you can do.

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Heat Stroke in Dogs: Recognition and Prevention

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The combination of heat and humidity together can be deadly. A well-conditioned dog in the dryer heat of the southwest may be better able to tolerate higher temps than an out-of-shape dog in the Mid-Atlantic region with lower temps but higher humidity.

Know Your Breed

A sub-Saharan type dog (thin skinned, lean body mass, long nose) will be more heat tolerant than a shaggy, stocky British Island type dog. Dogs with long noses are far more heat tolerant than the flatter faced breeds because part of the cooling off mechanism is to cool hot air as it enters the nasal passages before it enters the lungs.

Dogs with large, erect ears (Pharaoh hound) have a large surface area with which to release heat, so you would expect better heat tolerance from this type of dog than from a stocky Bull Terrier. Large bulky muscles, heavy coats and heavy body mass (as well as obesity) are going to increase heat risk.

Know Their Fitness

Lack of fitness will increase heat risk. Pre-existing disease will increase heat risk–especially heart problems, elongated soft palates, bronchial conditions and laryngeal paralysis. (Dogs with chronic bronchial disease can run temps of as high as 103 indoors in an air conditioned room with no other activity other than breathing…) A sudden jump in heat and humidity (it has been in the mid 70’s and all of the sudden it goes to 90 for a few days) makes it harder to acclimate.

A dog that stays indoors (in air conditioning) most of the time and competes outside on the weekends is at increased risk as well. Intense physical activity (such as running for lure coursing or agility) is going to generate more heat than a slower pace event (such as obedience). So know your breed type, be honest about your dog’s level of fitness, and recognize that 75 degrees on a balmy April afternoon may be totally different from 75 on a muggy August day when the night time temps never drop below 70 for days on end.

Pay Attention to the Heat and Humidity

If the ground is too hot for you to touch with your bare feet, it’s too hot for your dog to walk on. Think of the toe beans! (This is why I am not a fan of protective boots for walking on asphalt–I believe it masks the risks of walking in such temperatures).

I personally choose not to walk my double-coated, middle-aged German Shepherd if the temperatures are above 75 degrees F. But you also have to look at the humidity! As a rule of thumb, the temperature in Fahrenheit plus the percent humidity should be less than 150 for walking/exercising your dog. So 75 F plus 80% humidity = 155, and I would seek some other form of activity rather than going for a walk.

I know it’s challenging, particularly as climate change is creating higher temperatures for longer parts of the year. But there is an upper limit to which dogs can acclimate to the heat.

Recognition of the Signs of Heat Exhaustion/Stroke

Warning signs:

  1. A normally active dog flops down on trail or refuses to get up during a change in activity.
  2. Excessive panting with what I call “bologna tongue”–the tongue comes so far out of the mouth that it flattens and widens and curls up at the end, or a tongue that is hanging out of the side of the mouth.
  3. Intense “brick” red color to the insides of ears and mouth. Gum color that is lavender to blue is a very bad sign, indicating cyanosis, and an inability to oxygenate the blood.
  4. Weakness in the legs (hence the “flopping” down), a staggering or drunk-like gait.
  5. “Glassy” eyes–a sense that mental function is fading in and out.
  6. Collapse followed by runny diarrhea ( your dog is going into shock).

The only accurate way to measure a dog’s temperature is with a rectal thermometer!

If your dog has a body temperature of 103.5 with a dog showing signs of exhaustion, steps should be taken right away to cool him down. Any dog exhibiting signs of heat stroke should be examined by a veterinarian, even if it seems to be responding to cooling measures. Organ failure and bleeding disorders can occur even after the dog may appear to have recovered. The mortality rate in dogs suffering from heat stroke can be as high as 50%. The faster you can get your dog to the vet, the better the outcome!

Cooling down a hot dog

Cool water (not cold, not ice) concentrating on the back of the head (where the brainstem is), on the large veins in the neck and between the hind legs–these areas have large superficial veins that will continue to pump hot blood past your cooling water and return cooler blood to the main part of the body.

Alcohol (isopropyl) repeatedly applied to the foot pads will quickly evaporate for a cooling action.

Bring the dog indoors and immerse the entire dog in a cool (not ice) bath. Avoid leaving in too long–it is possible to drive the temperature down too low and send your dog spiraling in the other direction—I usually continue cooling down until the body temp is less than 104 but not below 103. Fans can help with cooling as well.

If you are outside and trying to cool your dog, avoid wetting the entire dog as this can trap heat in the coat. For similar reasons, do not drape wet towels around the head and neck. If you are out hiking, and you have access to water, then stand the dog in a running stream (submerge up to chest level if deep enough). Taking cooling measures on the way to the veterinarian has shown to improve survival rates.

CALL YOUR VET. Heatstroke is a true emergency.

Preventing Heatstroke

  1. Pay attention to your dog’s fitness, breed and coat type as well as the ambient temperature and humidity. Remember that just because you can jog at noon in 90 degree weather doesn’t mean your dog can!
  2. Take lots of breaks during outdoor activities, and seek shade and water. Rethink taking your dog to outdoor events on asphalt where the heat radiates up off the paved area.
  3. Do not shave your dog down, especially if it’s a breed that doesn’t normally get shaved. Some people shave the bellies of working dogs with long coats much like a “trace” clip on a horse in winter. The removal of belly hair allows for a greater degree of cooling but the bulk of the coat is still present (which is a natural insulator against both heat and cold). 
  4. Invest in cooling pads and bandanas to cool your dog down on hot days between outdoor activities.

Remember

Your dog’s body temperature can increase long after the activity has ceased and you are now back in a cooler environment, so if he is not responding to a cooler environment, recheck that temperature.

Temperatures near/greater than 106 are a true emergency and can result in brain damage as well as vascular collapse and shock. The vast majority of dogs make it if caught quickly and the temperature is reduced, but some dogs can end up with permanent organ damage.

The shorter-faced breeds of dogs are at particular risk for heatstroke because a large part of the cooling action via panting comes from the passage of hot air through the nasal/mouth passages before entering the lungs and the shorter faced dogs cannot cool this air as efficiently as a dog with a longer snout. I had a client whose pug heat-stroked and died in less than 15 minutes outside on a hot humid day–his owner simply put him out in the yard for a few minutes.

The most important thing you need to know about heatstroke is to prevent it in the first place.


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